Morocco: From Souks to the Seaside

The tourist industry is still in its youth, reflected in the cost of travel and leisure. Currency is in Moroccan dirhams, and there are approximately 12.9 dirhams to one pound. Nothing in Morocco has a set price, so a holiday here will be sure to increase anyone’s ability to strike a bargain. Along the streets and winding corners of the medina, refuse to eat at a restaurant for above 40 dirhams, as it is almost guaranteed the waiter will give in. Spend nothing above 60 dirhams for a four person taxi, where luggage will be precariously balanced in roof baskets.

For the female traveller, be warned of any offers of camels proposed to your male friends in exchange for ownership of you; they will be numerous. Ideal for a group (although not if you are intending to drink as Morocco is a Muslim country, so alcohol is scarce), Morocco is diverse, inexpensive and culturally rich. Be it the traditional Berber dynasties, the ­arrival of the Arabs, or the French colonisation between 1912 and 1956, Morocco bears the scars of a dynamic and ever-changing past – but the tourist industry is still in its youth.

The most common city to fly to, Marrakech can be quite overwhelming on first impressions. The main square, Jamaa el-Fna, exudes an atmosphere reminiscent of an annual street festival rather than an everyday market place. It is one of the biggest of its kind in the world, and features everything from monkey trainers and women sitting on stools selling henna tattoos to caleches (horse-drawn carriages) and orange juice stalls. By night, the square transforms into a bright and fiery hub of burning incense, coloured lanterns and dancing. Temporary stalls line part of the square and are erected each evening to form mobile restaurants, where the customers watch food being cooked on open air barbeques, the steam billowing up into the night. The best place to stay is as close to Jamaa el-Fna as possible; again, there are endless guesthouses, or riads as they are called, but staying so close to the main square in the main city of the country drives the rates to between £17 and £40, depending on the level of luxury you are seeking. Situated north-west of the medina, these are a must see, and entry is 30 dirhams.

Marrakech is also the best place to organise excursions into the tip of the Western Sahara, with numerous companies offering trips of between two days and two weeks into the desert. These can cost anywhere upwards of £50 including food – make sure you browse websites and pre-book to find the best prices. With traditional Berber camps housing you overnight, local men teaching ancient songs on drums around a warming fire, steaming delicious tagines and lying on the sand dunes spotting constellations in the clearest night sky you will ever see, these trips are not to be missed. Of course, the camel rides usually included add to the enjoyment, even if they are painful in the following days (especially for the men).

The coastal resort of Essaouira is a perfect getaway from the bustle of Marrakech. There is no train line as yet, so the best way to get there is either by coach (about 70 dirhams one way, and be sure to book in advance as they fill up quickly). Relatively unspoiled by tourism, Essaouira is ideal to experience authentic Moroccan culture in a relaxed, seaside setting. The architecture blends French style and Moroccan colour – whitewashed buildings with bright blue shutters line every street up to five storeys high. Essaouira is also known for its art scene, with several small galleries through the town. You’re likely to spend time strolling leisurely through the souks passing donkeys carrying goods, or browsing ornate teapots, Berber carpets and spices such as saffron.

You can walk along the old ramparts which used to form the port in the sixteenth century, when Essaouira was a key stop off in Atlantic trading. The current port is a hub of activity, with all kinds of seafood being sold along the harbour-side. Whole fish can get quite expensive, but a dish should cost around 40 dirhams after some healthy bargaining. The beach is just along from the port, stretching for miles around the bay. Although lovely to walk along, be warned: Essaouira is not called the windy capital of Africa for nothing, as howling gales driving in from the Atlantic causes the sand to blow horizontally for a large proportion of the year.
 
Essaouira may also be a good place if you want to try out a hammam – the public baths for Moroccans – separated strictly by gender. Usually organised through your hostel owner, tourists have to pay a premium to be allowed in, but an hour’s massage and wash should cost around 70 dirhams and involve a full body massage with a local expert. This is definitely an experience you may not ever get (or want) to repeat, as the partial nudity means you’ll become a lot more acquainted with not only your friends, but many other Moroccans too.

Seven hours by train from Marrakech, the city of Fes stands inland in the north of the country. With an approximate population of one million, it consists of three main parts: the old medina inside the ancient city walls, new Fes containing the Jewish quarter (the mellah) and the Ville Nouveau, created by the French. The old medina is by far the most charming and beautiful part of the city. Endless riads line the narrow winding streets and generally cost between £12 and £25 per night.

Many are small family run properties, with extremely welcoming owners. Day trips into the Middle Atlas mountains only have to take a day, costing around 200 dirhams (approximately £17). The endangered monkey, the Barbary Macaque, lives in the forests here and in places are so tame that you can feed them from your hand. Navigating the supposed 9,400 winding streets that make up the old medina of Fes is another potential hazard. Hiring a tour guide is highly advised, and inexpensive at around 20 dirhams for a morning.







Charlotte Lyons
Nouse